London Loop: Section 5: Hamsey Green to Banstead Downs

A surprisingly warm and sunny October day - weather has been better in our Autumn than we had in the Summer. Still as I had made an early start there was still frost and a heavy bejewelling of dew in some of the pretty wooded hollows near the start of the walk.
The walk starts from Hamsey Green, a bus ride away from the centre of Croydon, the bus goes past some of the buildings burnt out in the recent riots, a sombre start to the day's walking. Climbing up onto Kenley Common I looked back to be surprised to see huge chalk cliffs the remains I assume of quarry workings.

Chalk Cliffs

After a short section of suburban walking the views open up and you find yourself on an old coaching track known as Riddlesown Road. It is always a bit special when you encounter an old track like this or a section of Roman Road when out walking, for me this is more exciting than finding a building and it is easy to imagine other people walking the same route as you several hundreds of years before.
Once through Old Couldson you enter possibly the most stunning part of the LOOP so far. Wide open views of chalk downland. Coming from Hampshire with its similar geology and terrain I felt very much at home and nostalgic. Other than the odd dog walker and a few people on horseback I had the landscape to myself and with clear blue skies and warm sunshine above was very happy.

Happy Valley

More ancient landscape follows as the walk continues along Farthing Downs with a Saxon burial ground just off the track to the right and stunning views of the city as you reach the end of the ridge.
Back to earth after leaving the downs with a dull trudge uphill through the urban sprawl of Coulsdon (sorry any readers from that suburb). Once back into the countryside you find yourself in rather depressing open space with views to Wembley in the distance including the arch of Wembley Stadium. Mood was lightened by the scent of lavender which appeared at first to be coming from nowhere but it turned out to be a lavender farm. The lavender had been harvested but the scent of the herbs still hung in the air. Across the road the route goes through Oaks Farm (the original owners of which gave their name to the famous horse race) where there is a craft centre but more importantly a cafe which serves good food, just what the doctor ordered!
 The path then follows a slightly sunken way past stables and a prison before emerging onto more downland. The path then crosses a VERY busy dual carrigeway with four lanes of fast moving traffic. Getting across was a bit of a challenge with no lights, subway or zebra crossing and with legs a bit leaden after 10 miles of walking. Eventually there was a gap and I managed to get across. Then followed a rather comic period where I managed to get lost on a golf course. I waited or a golfer to make a real pig's ear of getting out of a bunker (first shot went 6 inches the next sailed over the green ad into the shrubs on the other side. Once he stopped swearing he gave me directions to the station at Banstead.
After a god start and a fantastic middle the walk went down hill a bit at the end with too much urban walking and too many busy roads.

London Loop: Section 4: West Wickham Common to Hamsey Green

Realise I have been a little slack and have not written about these two walks yet even though I did them one and two months ago. Leg 4 from West Wickham Common to Hamsey Green starts with a long link section that goes up and down along  a fenced path. I remember this from the previous walk where I was pretty tired and this long and rather dull link at the and was the last thing I needed. More suburban street walking follows until you reach an old church with fine views over wooded countryside. The next section through sports fields leads to a steep climb up to and through woodland. All still in leaf at this point and including sweet and horse chestnuts, oaks, hazels and even an almond. Nut-tastic! As you emerge from the Theehalfpenny Wood you get a good view back to London including a glimpse of the Shard which is now almost complete. This building near London Bridge station has been one of the landmarks of the LOOP so far as for several legs London Bridge station has been my starting point.

The path then meanders through more meadows before climbing up to the viewpoint on Addington Hill. From here on a clear day you can get a fantastic panorama of the London skyline. Today was a bit overcast but the view was still pretty good. It would have been better if someone hadn't stolen all the brass identification plates so I could have known what I was looking at!

View from Addington Hill

I could identify the Shard, Docklands, Gherkin and a windmill in Shirley. Descending through a nice park you then emerge back into the suburbs and my first encounter with Croydon's tram system. Quite an extensive network and quite quiet so you may not notice them coming! More pleasant open space and woodland follows until you arrive at the small hamlet of Hamsey Green where I picked up a bus back to Croydon. Took a tram back to Wimbledon for a change of pace rather than a mainline train back to the city.

Two Welsh Walks: 2 - A Circular Walk From Moelfre

This walk, about 4 or 5 miles, contains everything that is interesting about Anglesey. It starts with a stretch along the Anglesey coastal path heading north. It is best to avoid the car park by the harbour as it is: 1. Small. 2: Expensive: 3: Difficult to get out of as it is very busy! Unlike the walk from Cemaes Bay the path is wide and climbs and descents are gentle. The rocks are different as well, gently dipping beds of massively bedded limestone. It is also a coast of wrecks and signs of this are apparent in this part of the walk. At least two monuments to wrecks stand on the coast and there is a museum dedicated to the lifeboat and their crews just outside of Moelfre.

The path passes a small, low island covered with sea birds and leads eventually to the wide sandy Ligwy Bay. Despite it being the height of the school holidays the beach was not crowded and there was a welcome bothy selling ice-creams which made for a satisfying break before heading away from the coast and along a series of quiet inland lanes.

Along this stretch of the walk you see signs of human habitation from the eolithic to the Middle Ages. First you see the ruins of Chapel Hen, a chapel of ease. Most was built in the 12^th century but extensions, including a 16^th century burial vault (great for all you D&D enthusiasts out there). Now it is a roofless ruin but the setting is very striking.

From here you walk into the woods and find the ruins of a Romano-British settlement. The stone walls of two circular dwellings and several more rectangular buildings on a low hill surrounded by a wall built probably to keep animals in rather than invaders out. The larger rectangular buildings are thought to be workshops and barns, the circular buildings living quarters. A striking site and well worth a visit. From here the lane leads to third, final and by far the oldest site. A huge capstone set on a circle of smaller stones. The remains of twenty or more men, women and children have been excavated from here and dated to about 2500-3000BC.
From here the walk returned to Moelfre via field paths and some very steep stiles until the welcome site of Ann's Pantry hove into view where a much needed cup of coffee and a slice of cake set us up for the drive back to the cottage.

Two Welsh Walks: 1 - Cemaes Bay to Bull Bay

This walk is part of the Anglesey Coastal Path and as such is clearly signed. On top of that being a coastal path finding the route is dead easy: you just keep the sea on your left and you can't go wrong.
The walk starts in the tidy little village of Cemaes which has a lot of useful shops including a Post Office, vital when you are on holiday and needing to send post to relatives around the world. This is a linear walk, I was dropped off at the start and my wife drove to the Bull Bay Hotel where I would be picked up later (after an obligatory pint (for medicinal purposes only of course)).
Cemaes Bay itself is a striking example of Precambrian geology with folded and twisted rocks of great age. Part of a subduction zone (a destructive plate boundary where one plate is forced beneath another and destroyed, often forming a volcanic island arc in the process). As an ex-geologist this was a particularly interesting part of the walk for me. The path climbs steeply up beside the coast and for much of the route it is very narrow with little separation between the path and the sea some hundred or so feet below.

The route is about six or seven miles in length but it feels a lot longer as there are a number of steep climbs and descents most of the time with steep rough steps but sometimes not. After about the fourth of these climbs my lungs were burning and my head throbbing – walking the London Loop is one thing – tough coastal paths are something else!
There are many signs of industry round the walk, in particular the remains of a wharf and extensive buildings at Porth Wen.

These are the remains of a brickworks I learnt from the barmaid of the Bull Bay Hotel. From this point the path becomes more level and wide making the going easy and at last I was able to enjoy the views of the coast and the heather coated slopes inland. Keep your eyes pealed for wildlife; I think I saw a seal in one of the coves and porpoises are said to swim offshore. Birds are common too; I saw oyster catchers in Cemaes Bay and a kestrel perched on a fence post about twenty paces away from me at one point. I think he was waiting for me to keel over and flew away when he realised I was not going to be supper! There are plenty of viewpoints suitable for a packed lunch, in particular the Lookout Tower on Llanlleiana Head. The walk, though tough in places is well worth the effort and I felt that I had earned my pint at the end.

London Loop: Section 3: Petts Wood to West Wickham Common

Weather: Hot and Sunny
Playlist: LastFM Playlist
Time: 3.5 Hours  (plus a 1/2 hour lunch break)

I chose a gloriously sunny July day to walk the ten miles between Petts Wood and Hayes stations. After a relatively long link through suburban streets you join the main route through a wild flower strewn heath a sign of things to come. After more suburban walking (one of the advantages of walking at this time of the year is that I can see what other people grow in their front gardens). The next part is the first of many attractive woodland sections on this leg of the Loop. I like the smell of woodland, the smell of damp rotting wood is comforting when you are out of doors (but not when you are poking around in your house). After crossing the busy A232 and the A21 you arrive in Farnborough. An attractive village but no time to stop as there is a gentle descent alongside woodland to the High Elms Country park. This section boasts wide open skies and gently rolling downland with dense woodland to your left. I kept in the shadows as it was now very hot!
I got a little lost in the grounds of the High Elms Country Park and ended up at the very nice cafe in the grounds - they do a very nice sausage sandwich as well as a selection of other hot and cold meals and drinks - worth a visit if you time your arrival for around lunchtime as I did!

Poppies amongst the grain

Moving on the landscape becomes more and more unlike anything you would think was within an hour or so of London. Walking along Bogey Lane you have fields of grain spattered with crimson poppies and on the crest of a rise Holwood House.

I love silly names!

A gentle, but long, climb leads you up past the Wilberforce Oak (where Wilberforce and Pitt debated the abolition of the slave trade) and gives you more views across the countryside.
Descending towards Keston you pass a string of lakes and a brick lined spring. The water was surrounded by fishermen and the water was alive with dragon and damsel flies. The spring in its modern brick lined surround has not lost any of the magic that is associated with such features. People have probably been taking water there for hundreds if not thousands of years.
Past the lakes, more forest walking but the sounds of the road traffic is never far away. All too soon there is another long link to the station at Hayes, mostly uphill and quite tiring especially as there was the long train journey back to Greenford to look forward to.

London Loop: Section 2: Old Bexley to Petts Wood

Weather: Fine, sunny and warm
Playlist: LastFm Playlist
Time: 2.5 Hours

Bit of a delay blogging this walk - busy times at work. However this was a fantastic walk and I would heartily recommend it to anyone. Although not as long as some sections it crams in a lot of attractive features. The walk starts out from the attractive Old Bexley that I'm sure would repay more time exploring than I gave it. Soon after leaving Bexley you head up over a grass covered waste dump, no don't turn back, this was filled with wild flowers and several skylarks that danced in the air and sung in the summer sun. Fantastic. There were clumps of wild fennel with beautiful bronze fronds some 3 feet high beside the track and again it was hard to believe that this was London not somewhere wilder. The path then goes past cricket pitches where a host of youngsters were playing various forms of cricket. One young girl thwacked a ball almost over the fence as I was passing so take care on this leg if you are walking in the summer!
The next section is alongside the River Cray which here is very pretty and filled with little brown fish. My fish identification skills are even worse than my bird spotting talents so I can't tell you what they were! The Cray is held back by a weir under the attractive Five Arch Bridge and spreads out into a placid lake upon which swans with cygnets along with coots and moorhen with their young paddle around.

Five Arch Bridge

The path continues along the river through the meadows past the attractive Sidcup Place before negotiating the junction of the A20 and A222 - a bit of a maze but well signposted so I didn't get lost. Most of the rest of the walk is then in dappled shade through mixed woodland, up and down hill along clear paths possibly some of my favourite walking. The woods were full of jays (or the same one that kept coming back and flying past again).
The last part for the walk gave views over rolling hills with sheep grazing in the sun. Great stuff and can't wait for the next leg in early July.

Capital Ring: Section 6, 7 & 8: Richmond Bridge to the Summit of Horsenden Hill

Weather: Hot and sunny

Time: 6 hours including a stop for a relaxed lunch and a browse around some craft stalls!

This was probably the best leg of the whole Capital Ring! The variety of walking, town streets, river side, canal tow path and open country, the weather and the fact that I had my wife and some friends along all contributed to the pleasure.
The walk starts in Richmond and takes you along the river Thames before walk through the grounds of Syon House (which has a fine garden centre for those interested) leads you to historic Brentford. Here you follow the Grand Union canal which was alive with bird life including goslings and a three way tug of war between a group of coots and a length of weed as they tried to build a nest.

Just before the path leaves the canal we stopped off at the Fox at Hanwell. The food and choice of guest ales were brilliant and there were craft stalls outside for my wife to browse! As this was the day of the Royal Wedding the street outside was packed with trestle  tables and a very convivial atmosphere as people celebrated with music and lots of food.

The path then follows the river Brent for a time before joining a different branch of the canal which takes you to the path to the summit of Horsenden Hill. The view from the summit, despite the smoggy haze was a great reward for all the efforts.

OK - Time for a lap of honour!

Throughout this leg I was surrounded by fantastic wildlife and plants, I was walking at the best time of the year but even so it was a constant delight and a reminder that no matter what people say about LOndon and the suburbs, there are many worse places to live and walk in!

London LOOP: Leg 1 - Erith to Bexley

Weather: Very warm, clear blue skies, gentle breezes

Playlist: LastFm Playlist

Time: 3 Hours

Started the London LOOP this week even though I haven't finished the Capital Ring yet - that will come later this month. Spring has definitely sprung here in East London with bluebells and white wood anemones in the shady woodlands on the field paths to Bexley and blossom of all colours on the cherries and hawthorn trees in the woods and on the streets.

The walk starts at Erith which with the wide river front and the bunting has a fee of a seaside resort - very odd but quite attractive.

Erith Riverside

Further on the walk makes its way alongside some of the many creeks and channels that run into the Thames. In the bright sunshine the mudflats had the colour and texture of hammered silver and the fields on either side were full of skylarks dancing and singing until they were fit to burst. Swans and dugs floated down the shallow streams while ponies grazed beside the numerous scrap yards  recycling facilities. One of these facilities had a rather odd sign.

Odd - What would Lucy say?

The next section ran beside the River Cray which had a very peaceful feel despite running behind a long row of houses. It then runs past an old country manor before taking a short but scary trip alongside the very busy A2!

Not the most scenic part of the route

After this the path runs alongside woodland filled with bluebells and anemones with thrushes and tits singing in the trees.
It finally emerges into the village of Bexley with its interestingly spired church.

Bexley Church

Capital Ring: Section 6 - Wimbledon Park to Richmond Bridge

Windmill on Wimbledon Common

Weather: Sunny but cool and windy


Playlist: Last FM Playlst

Time: 2 1/4 hours


Wide open spaces with in some places no sign of human habitation this walk was one of the most glorious of all the Capital Ring walks I've completed. Near the start is a interesting windmill that if I had time I would have stopped to investigate further (along with the cafe!). The walk then runs past lakes and ponds before heading across heathland. The woods were full of birds including woodpeckers and thrushes.

Striking woods and gentle rises after crossing a very busy road usher you into Richmond Park. There are stables near the entrance and not surprisingly horses are common, including some cute ponies that looked as though they had cantered straight out of a Thewell cartoon!

Once out into the park the walk opens up, gentle rises, wood capped hills and wind swept ponds. Amongst the trees deer are common, not sure what type as I didn't get close enough as I didn't want to spook them.

Richmond Bridge

The walk then runs out onto a ridge that overlooks London and the views are spectacular and worth the walk.

You then descend, steeply, and join the Thames again. Richmond is very pretty with lots of nice shops and places to eat and a great place for the walk to end.

Only two more legs before I complete the Capital Ring. These I hope to do together with some of my close friends at the end of April. Before then I will start on my next project - The London Loop!

Capital Ring: Section 4 & 5 - Crystal Palace to Wimbledon Park

Weather: Mild and Drizzly

Playlist: LastFM Playlist

Time: 4 hours (including 45 minute lunch break)

This was a surprisingly pleasant walk despite the grey drizzly weather. The rain was never so heavy that I needed my coat on but was just heavy enough that I kept it on in any case otherwise after an hour I would have been soaked.

The walk started with some very steep climbs as you zig-zag through suburban Crystal Palace with views across to the mist shrouded radio and television masts. Again like most of these walks I encountered far more parks and green spaces than you would suspect. Streatham and Balham were also much nicer than I imagined with large Edwardian and Victorian terraces with interesting original features including stained glass, balconies and fine brickwork. Some larger more modern pieces of stained glass including a fine representation of what appeared to be the departure of the Mayflower.

Building of the day however was this Victorian pumping station.

Victorian Pumping Station - nice

A close second was the Art Deco splendour of Du Cane Court, a massive apartment block that Poirot would have felt at home in.

The parks were starting to show their spring colours with daffodils blooming in patches beneath the trees. Lots of dogs in the park chasing balls and sticks while their owners huddled together under shelter to keep out of the drizzle.

Took lunch today 2/3 of the way round at the Common Ground Cafe in Wandsworth Common, well worth checking out as the food and coffee is very good.

The sun came out eventually as I walked down the hill past Wandsworth Prison, Earlsfield Cemetery to Wimbledon Park station and the end of another interesting section of the Capital Ring.  

Capital Ring: Section 3 - Grove Park to Crystal Palace

Weather: Warm, Windy and Wet.

Playlist: LastFM Playlist

Time: 2 1/2 Hours

It was good to get back into the open air after a month of no serious walking, my feet had started to itch! This leg is at the heart of why I wanted to do the Capital Ring in the first place; to show me the London I didn't know. I had a fairly good idea of what the west, north and east of London was like but I had rarely visited that part of our great metropolis that lies to the south of the river.

The start of the walk, in heavy and penetrating drizzle, appears on the map to run through residential streets but in fact it takes you along the the remains of the Great North Wood. Now to my eyes this is not in the north, is not much of a wood and is not that great! A narrow strip often no more than a few metres wide with very few mature trees. However there are some very nice carved posts and benches shaped like leaves dotted about and it is a green lane through which wildlife can move and nest. One of the stranger lifeforms I spotted in the area was a large flock of Santas. On one short row of houses there must have been 20 or 30; some climbing trees, others on walls and some keeping watch from the lawn. Along with them were several large snowmen and numerous large bells hanging from lines strung across the back gardens. There was another slightly smaller congregation on another house further round on the walk. So gob-smacked was I by this display (it is the middle of January when these creatures have normally flown back to the north by the beginning of the month) that I forgot I had my camera with me.

The next section of the walk ran through the large golf course attached to Beckenham Place Park. Nice rolling hills and great views but very muddy. The 18th house itself is quite a feature with a massive portico the builder took from their previous property - the whole thing looks a little odd to say the least.

Finally the walk meanders its way to Crystal Palace. To my delight the dinosaurs were on view along with what appears to be a new geological time trail.

Raarrghhh!

 

 

I'm now two thirds or thereabouts around the Capital Ring and only three more sections (five legs) to do. I've already started thinking about attempting the London Loop!

Random Weekday Walks

I didn't manage to get any walks in during December what with the weather, lots of work and a foul cold. So as part of my new year resolution to walk more I decided to see what delights the area around my office in Vauxhall could offer. First impressions are not good. I've been based there for several years all I've been tempted to do is walk to the local Sainsburys or to the client offices in Victoria (can be a pleasant walk if you say off of the horrendously busy Vauxhall Bridge Road). As, once I have scoffed my lunch, I only have about 30-40 minutes the strolls have to be by necessity quite short.

So far I have fitted in two walks just picking a direction and seeing where it took me.

Pink Floyd - Animals

 The first walk took me past one of the many building sites in the area and then along the Thames. It is not as historic as the stretch by St Paul's where I used to work but watching the water flow by was still very relaxing. I managed to get close to the magnificent Battersea power station (made famous by Pink Floyd who put it on the cover of their brilliant album Animals - the second album I ever bought). Just before the power station the Thames Path diverts around the quirky Tideway Village - an eclectic collection of houseboats which is sadly under threat from developers.


The second walk I took a different direction this time heading through the small Vauxhall Park and then through the Victorian streets nearby. This walk took me to another unusual location Bonnington Square, a community owned square that grew out of a WWII bomb site. It is a restful oasis of plants, seats and sculpture amidst the grey of Vauxhall. For me the highlight is a huge waterwheel salvaged from an old marble workshop and the tale that once a year it turns bringing champagne up from the underworld. The streets around the square are well maintained and appear to have a strong community spirit.

I'll try to fit some more walks in over the next few weeks I certainly felt a lot better for the walks rather than spending more time hunched over my keyboard.